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Andrew’s Kountry Kitchen

Posted by DNR 26 Oct 2008 7 Comments

Andrew’s Kountry Kitchen (2108 Angier Ave.) is a homey east Durham institution that’s been serving hot meals for more than 50 years.

Are you ready for the kountry?

"Are you ready for the kountry?"

According to a great article from the Durham News, the Andrews family owned and operated a grocery store on Angiers back in the in the 1930s and 40s.  This area of Durham (now a “grated community”) was once a bustling center for working class folks.  

Very suicidefood.blogspot.com

Very suicidefood.blogspot.com

One of the Andrews opened the restaurant in the 50s, and in the 70s, his cousin Gary bought it and continued to run the place, from cooking to waiting tables, until he passed away this year. They just reopened a couple of weeks ago, and there were many indications that he was well-loved, from the sign in front of the restaurant and the memorial picture inside to the way the ladies who worked there spoke about him. 

Chicken and dumplings, cabbage, and pinto beans

Chicken and dumplings, cabbage, and pinto beans

Of course I went for the food and was very happy with what I got. As is the case for many soul food places, they had one entree per day (from a rotating menu of fried fish, oxtail, etc.) and when I went it was chicken and dumplings.  Although it wasn’t quite what I expected — the “dumplings” are basically chopped up thick noodles — it hit the spot. The chicken was just peppery enough, and the vinegary cabbage and smoky pinto beans were great too.

Incredible lemon cake

Incredible lemon cake

I had to try the lemon cake, and I’m so glad I did. The halo of delicious that you can see from the photo says it all.  They also have an extensive breakfast menu (more red hots and liver pudding!) and the standard grill items for lunch.  My lunch, plus a sweet tea, came to about $7.

...because it's time to go

"...because it's time to go."

All in all, Andrew’s is a both a great soul food restaurant and a Durham time capsule.  Like the lady running the kitchen said, it’s food just like my grandmama makes it.

Andrew’s Kountry Kitchen (map)
919.596.7905
Open 6 am – 7 pm 

Andrews Grill on Urbanspoon

7 Comments »

  • bart said:

    Those are classic southern dumplings. My gran actually calls it “chicken and pastry”, which may be even more confusing. Although I’m an NC native, I realize that dumplings means something else to the rest of the country (the wet, biscuit-y deals in your stew).

    If you like them, you’ll find frozen pastry/dumplings in your local Food Lion or Harris Teeter (probably near frozen bread). Just follow the recipe on the package for some hearty stuff.

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  • Paul Dudenhefer said:

    Thanks so much for the review. I’ve driven by Andrew’s many times and have always made a mental note to go there.

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  • Deborah Andrews said:

    First of all, as the oldest of Gary Andrews’ four children, I would like to thank all the people who were faithful and loyal customers of our Dad at the Restaurant. He loved his customers and developed personal relationships with many of them. Thanks to all of you who made the Restaurant such a special place for him.

    Secondly, I would highly recommend that you go by the Restaurant and try the food and meet the individuals who are now operating the Restaurant. The food is wonderful and the people very warm and personable. If you haven’t been by, please do so because you won’t be disappointed!

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  • Sheryl Andrews Michael said:

    I cannot tell you how proud we are that our Dad’s legacy lives on. His love of people and the East Durham Community were very near and dear to his heart. If he were still with us, we as a family have no doubt that he would still be serving the community that he loved. Thanks to all of you who patronized Andrews Kountry Kitchen and called him FRIEND.

    It’s definitely worth your time to go check out the menu and meet the new Operator and Staff. The food is fabulous (country cooking) and the conversation lively!!!!! You’ll be glad you did! ENJOY!!!

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  • Erin Turner said:

    me and my sister loves to cook foods at home and we always love homecooked meals’`.

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  • buy kitchens said:

    excellent post, very rarely these days to i see quality posts written by someone who actually knows what they are talking about, i look forward to reading more of your posts, keep up the good work….

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  • Jeff Brown said:

    I would like to say thank you to everyone who went to eat at my grandfathers restaurant over the years. It is so nice to see such nice reviews of his cooking. I wish he was here to see how much he is missed and how much the public loved him. Thank you.

    [Reply]

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