Home » Gas Stations, Restaurants

Still slumming…? Only in the best way.

Posted by YAR 18 Apr 2008 3 Comments

UPDATE: I tend to misuse words and think everyone knows what I’m talking about.  Slumming = eating at less-than-haute places such as trucks and gas stations.

I know we’ve been missed. It’s finals, sorry. But I managed to take a break for some slumming (by which I mean awesomely not fancy, nothing negative implied at all) and here are the results:

These are chicken livers and collards from Metro Express Market & Grill (2500 Erwin Rd, in the Exxon shop). I have wanted to like livers, especially fried ones, for a while now but have been having trouble. I’ve heard from people who do like them that they’re not as ubiquitous around here as they’d hoped, but that a couple of mysterious days a week, they’re available at Metro Express. I got lucky and they were there today (it’s Thursdays and Fridays). It was by far my best liver experience…maybe it was the pretty high fried-to-liver ratio, and/or the spiciness of the fried. Anyway, I recommend, but then I don’t know from fried livers, so take it with a grain of salt.

The collard greens were less good, though I’ve had worse.

We’ll be spotty during finals (the rest of April) but don’t give up on us.


  • Phil said:

    When y’all are seated on the Supreme Court, we’ll remember that it wasn’t all studying that got you there. Southern food helped.

    BTW, have any of you written about where you’re from? I may have missed it.

    Regarding gas-station chicken livers and other foods, that wouldn’t be a bad set of things to blog about.

    At worst, gas-station chicken livers are over cooked and over salted, and left too long under the heat lamp.

    The best two chicken liver dishes I ever had were at Mondo Bistro (chef Sam Poley used to make them there, back before they folded and were replaced by Vespa) and at Crook’s Corner. If I recall correctly, the chicken livers in both cases were modestly marinaded and given a modest (or overt) Asian treatment — with things like soy, ginger, and green onions. The Crook’s Corner variations were not breaded. The Mondo Bistro livers might have been.

    In any case, no one should ever be blamed for not liking chicken livers. The texture and taste of liver is not like any other animal or vegetable product. (The texture can be likened, however, to the excellent and affordable 360 chocolate truffles from Whole Foods. Go figure! (Oh, and if you get those truffles, make sure to stick to the standard ones. Not the ones with caramel flavoring. Yeeccchh!)

    Good luck with ‘zams.


  • M said:

    I’m not sure what you mean when you say “slumming,” particularly because you seem to like some of these places. It makes these posts sound a little condescending, like a culinary tourist sharing tales of the ghetto surrounding Duke. Are these places good to eat at, or just good to eat at if you’re in the slums?


  • Carpe Durham/Reasonably Prudent Person said:


    It is a joke referring to when we tried to review some higher-end places and were almost uniformly told by our readers that they preferred it when we reviewed non-high-end places. We all love Durham, love most of the places we review, and certainly don’t consider Durham a slum.


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